Sunday, February 13, 2011

Spring 2011 Couture Fashion Week

There is so much going on in the fashion world right now. Couture Fashion Week was a few weeks ago, New York Fashion Week kicked off this week and the Grammy's are tonight so you know everyone is dying to know WWGW (What Would Gaga Wear). Let's start with Couture Fashion Week. As a whole, I wasn't as impressed as previous seasons. There were many disappointments but a couple collections were on point so things kind of evened out. Brief review of the collections in alphabetical order:

Alexis Mabille - Mabille referenced a "dark versus light" motif as his inspiration for the collection and I enjoyed this theme in the two-toned green gown but the two-toned red/pink gown was pretty much a disaster in my book. The solid red gown was lovely but didn't fit with the theme. In general, there was a lack of cohesiveness in the collection and it appeared as though there were random dresses sent down the runway with no rhyme or reason as to why they belonged to the same family.

Armani Prive - Armani has been consistently sending down futuristic looks for his Armani Prive collection for the past few seasons but he has found a way to make the future different and interesting each time. Whereas in the past his future looks were mostly cream, white and beige, we now get bursts of jewel tones. The colors are brilliant, the textures are interesting and those hats....those hats are certainly eye-catching. 

Bouchra Jarrar - Bouchra's theme for this collection was asymmetry and although the designs were clean and the details were interesting (I especially loved the asymmetric fur shawl on the gray dress), there was still nothing about the collection that screams "couture". Overall underwhelming.

Chanel - Oh Lagerfeld, you break my heart. The collection started off with the usual string of obligatory "Chanel suits" which I've forgiven him for. He has to uphold tradition. That's fine. But what came after that was what made my soul cry. The designs were not flattering. The proportions were off. The colors were drab. The only thing redeeming about this collection was that the fabrics and textures were fabulous. But the construction was disappointing. And all of the models wore flats. That makes sense. Fits with the fugly theme.

Christian Dior - Each year, Galliano's couture collection is my favorite. His is THE collection I look forward to and I associate the word "couture" with "Dior". Galliano did not disappoint. His collection was inspired by Rene Gruau's illustrations from the 1940s and 1950s with a few modern twists. All of the pieces were uniquely interesting and yet they all came together as a cohesive and lovely collection. And I also loved the way the girls were styled. Brilliant.

Elie Saab - After Dior, Elie Saab's collection was my favorite. Mr. Saab's gowns were all gorgeous, feminine and perfectly crafted. They fit the models exquisitely and I am certain we will see these gowns on the red carpet very soon.

Givenchy - Givenchy's couture collection was strikingly similar to last year's collection. It looks like the photos were even shot in the same room. The only difference was the addition of color on the back of the gowns to add some contrast to the all-white theme. Riccardo Tisci said this collection was inspired by Japan but I personally don't see that connection. These gowns (just like last year's) are gorgeous and the level of detail is insane but I'd like to see him go a complete different direction for his next couture collection.

John Paul Gaultier - Yes. Yes. Yes. Love everything from the styling with feathers in the girls' hair, to the lace leggings to the ridiculous finale piece. A kaleidoscope of legs hidden under a beautiful white gown? Ok. Whatever you say, JPG.

Valentino - I was disappointed with Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri's direction this couture collection. Piccioli claimed this was a trip "back to elegance" but in my opinion this was just a trip to boredom. There was nothing original or interesting about any of the gowns, except for maybe the last gown with the voluminous layers. I'm not impressed. Actually I haven't really loved anything these two have done since they took over as creative directors in 2008. I'm kinda over them. Come back, Valentino! We miss you.

1 comment:

  1. <3 your top three: Dior (OMFG I died.), Elie Saab & Gaultier!