The classic Italian fashion houses to me are all about sexy and chic garments that make women feel confident and desirable. This season, we've been seeing a gorgeous range of jewel tones, furs and jewel-toned furs at many of the shows in New York and London. Those happen to be my favorite trends from Milan as well. I'm going to talk about my 10 favorite shows followed by a few disappointments.
1. Gucci - This was definitely a collection that prompted the phrase, "one of each, please." Every single garment was rich with color and light as air. The movement of the garments down the runway was heavenly. I also enjoyed the details like the colored fur accents and petal-like capes. Frida Giannni stated that she was influenced by Angelica Huston from her days as a model in the 70s and Florence Welch from Florence and the Machines. I definitely see the connection since Florence is almost always in a floor-length, ethereal gown. This show celebrated Gucci's 90th anniversary and what a celebration it was!
2. Emilio Pucci - Again we're seeing the jewel-tone trend but what I love about Pucci is the hippy-chic quality the garments evoke. The dress that put this collection in the number 2 slot is the two-toned deep blue gown on the right. Juxtaposing the light reflecting off the sequins with the darkness of the cerulean material was magical.
3. Francesco Scognamiglio - Never heard of him? Me neither until I saw this collection last week. Apparently both Gaga and Rihanna are clients of his and I can see what draws them to his work. Drama, drama, drama. The metal flower shoulder pads in the white gown Coco Rocha was wearing was to die for and the long red dress was both original and exquisite. Consider me a new fan!
4. Roberto Cavalli - Cavalli has consistently made creations that I could actually see myself owning and wearing now. He has a unique youthful vision that many of his other legendary peers don't quite grasp. The gypsy meets rocker chick look is definitely a look I love and fits with my personal style so I'm always excited to see his shows to get ideas for how to layer and wear things I already have in my closet.
5. DSquared2 - This is another youthful label that always seems to come up with new and interesting ways to layer clothes. My favorite look was probably the middle one with the skinny jeans, white blouse, grey sweater, black structured jacket....and oh yeah, a flannel shirt wrapped around the waist. That should keep you warm. Warm and super trendy!
6. Fendi - To me, this collection was all about the fur. The clothes under the furs were irrelevant and boring, but the furs were fabulous. Well done, Lagerfeld.
7. Dolce and Gabbana - The last few collections the fashion duo showed were laden with lace, and while lace still managed to peek in here and there, it wasn't the main focus of the garments. Instead, the theme this season was stars. The long sheer yellow gown with the black stars was my favorite look and I also am crazy about the long gold sequined jacket on the right.
8. Moschino - The show started off with the fuchsia jacket and black skirt combo on the left and I was instantly drawn in. The color is stunning and had my attention for the rest of the show. The floral dress worn by Coco Rocha at the end of the show as adorable as well. I love me my floral dresses! Overall a clean and wearable collection.
9. Salvatore Ferragamo - Massimiliano Giornetti (I love that crazy Italian name, by the way) designs effortlessly chic and classic clothes that women can relate to. The collection was mostly black, white and gray with classic patterns like houndstooth and animal print.There wasn't a lot of innovation but there was certainly many beautifully made clothes that many women would love to wear.
10. Jil Sander - I'm a sucker for floral so put enough of floral anything in a collection and I'll almost always love it. Case and point: Jil Sander. The floral jumpsuit was ridiculous but I died when I saw it. I kind of need it. The floral booties paired with the solid black dress were also a must have in my book.
The following are a few designers who I felt got it wrong this collection.
Giorgio Armani - Ugh....where do I begin? Ok. If you read my blog, you probably know by now that I am not a fan of velvet, especially when it consumes the entire look. The off the shoulder velvet jumpsuit was hideous and completely irrelevant to the modern woman. The rest of the collection had odd and unflattering proportions and textures. And that fringe! Why?! The gowns at the end of the show were almost pretty until you got to the bottom of the dresses and realize that there is a bubble shape to it. Again. WHY?!
Marni - One of the first looks was the over-sized hideous suit with that horrendous pattern. Who on earth would wear that? The rest of the show had more patterned suits that were painful to look at and a salmon pink dress with an emerald green fur coat? No. Just no.
Missoni - I've never been a huge fan of Missoni but th is collection was exceptionally tacky. I don't understand the half gray/half brown jacket that went over an ombre sweater worn with a floor-length patterned skirt. Does anyone understand this? Please explain it to me.
Prada - Ok. Let me compose myself a second. Ok. I don't even...Ok. So one of the looks is a fish-scale yellow jacket with fur trim paired with a red fish scale skirt. And she's wearing navy knee-high socks. What the what? And what is up with that ridiculous pattern in the first dress on the left?
Versace - Although I didn't absolutely hate this collection, I didn't care for it much either. I have enjoyed Donatella's previous collections very much so was let down with this show. That Big Bird dress at the end was awful though. I did hate that.